The City that Never Sleeps *** Bezsennosc w Santa Cruz

Wiele jest ‘bezsennych’ miast na swiecie, a my mieszkamy w jednym z nich – Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Zycie tu, jak na goracy klimat przystalo, zaczyna sie po zmroku, kiedy to centralny skwer zapelnia sie mieszkancami, szukajacymi wytchnienia od nieznosnego upalu. Nie wazne czy jest weekend czy zwykly dzien tygodnia: noca bary, puby i restauracje sa zawsze pelne.

Tymczasem na obrzezach miasta w czesci rezydencjonalnej, ludzie po trudach dnia, w spokoju udaja sie na spoczynek.

Zbyt piekne zeby bylo prawdziwe, prawda? Niestety w Boliwii nie obowiazuje cisza nocna. Od naszego powrotu z Europy bylo jednak spokojnie – kilka imprez w naszym i sasiednim kondominium zakonczylo sie o polnocy, muzyka nie byla ogluszajaca. Jednak w ostatni piatek, nasi sasiedzi zza muru postaniwili porzadnie sie zabawic. Pili zas przy dzwiekach najnowszych hitow, wydobywajacych sie z olbrzymich glosnikow. Pewnie dlatego tez przekrzykiwali sie jeden przez drugiego, bo przeciez trudno cokolwiek zrozumiec, kiedy bas (i alkohol) uderza w bebenki.  

U nas w mieszkaniu tez byla impreza – w koncu papierowe sciany przepuszczaja kazdy dzwiek! I tak doczekalismy cierpliwie do polnocy przy starym ‘Hobbicie’,  (nowy jeszcze nie wyszedl na pirackim dvd:), a po polnocy zadzwonilismy do recepcji, gdzie portier poinformowal nas, iz w piatki i soboty imprezy moga trwac do 2 nad ranem. Polezelismy wiec te dwie godziny, ogladajac Larry’ego David’a wstepujacego do nieba po operacji nerek oraz  zastanawiajac sie, co robia inni mieszkancy wybudzonego apartamentowca. O drugiej w nocy portier, po rozmowie z policja, powiadomil nas, iz w centrum miasta imprezy moga trwac do 3 nad ranem. No tak, tyle tylko, ze my w zasadzie w centrum nie jestesmy, ale kogo to obchodzi?

Ucichlo o 3.30 i tak spalismy blogo az do 6 nad ranem, kiedy to w sasiednim condominium wlaczyl sie alarm samochodowy. Nie pierwszy raz zreszta bylismy juz wybudzani w srodku nocy, przez ten sam samochod, w tym samym budynku, gdzie mieszka najbardziej upierdliwy pies na swiecie, szczekajacy o kazdej porze dnia i nocy.

Sobotnia noc na szczescie  nie przyniosla wiekszych sensacji i juz przed 22 zmorzyl nas tak bardzo upragniony sen. Niestety nawet w niedziele ludzie pospac sobie nie moga, bo kolo ‘najgorszego baru karaoke na swiecie‘, o 6 nad ranem zaparkowala ‘dyskoteka na kolkach’, pelna pijanych idiotow. Pili oni zreszta jeszcze w godzinach przedpoludniowych, kiedy wybralismy sie na spacer.

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A byl to szczegolny spacer, bowiem zabralismy ze soba goralke z Istebnej, ktorej zrobilismy po drodze kilka zdjec. Istebna around the world to projekt mlodziezy skupionej wokol zespolu folklorystycznego, ktora wpadla na pomysl, by logo zespolu – tanczaca goralka, oblecialo caly swiat. I tak ostatnio znalazla sie ona w Santa Cruz de la Sierra – miescie ktore nigdy nie spi i nie daje pospac innym.

Goralka z Istebnej wdziecznie prezentowala sie na tle katedry, bazaru, czy burzy tropikalnej, ktora przeszla nad miastem w sobote. Nastepnym razem postaram sie ja zabrac w inne ciekawe miejsca, daleko od zgielku wielkiego miasta.

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There are many cities around the world that never sleep, and we live in one of them – Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Life here, due to tropical climate, starts after dark. Central Square fills with people seeking respite from the unbearable day heat, as the surrounding pubs, bars, discos and restaurants. It does not matter whether is the weekend or just a normal week day.

Meanwhile, on the outskirts of the historic town, in a residential part of the city, people relax after a long day in peace.

To good to be true, right? Unfortunately, Bolivians don’t know the principle of curfew. After returning from Europe, our life has been quite  easy – a few parties in our and the neighboring condominium ended up at midnight, the music was not deafening. Unfortunately, last Friday, our neighbors behind the wall decided to enjoy themselves, with heavy drinking, to the music from huge speakers. Probably that is why they were also shouting, because surely it was difficult to understand anything when the bass (and alcohol) hits the eardrums.

In our apartment there was a party as well – at the end the ‘paper walls’ let in every sound, and so we were patiently awaiting midnight watching ‘The Hobbit’. After 12, we decided to call the reception and the porter told us that on Fridays and Saturdays parties can last until 2 am. So we waited two hours more, watching Larry David go into heaven and wondering out what the other residents do. At 2 am our porter called us, after speaking with police officer, that in the city centre parties can last until 3 am. Right, but who cares that we aren’t in the centre?

It got quiet about 3.30 am, and so we were sleeping nicely until 6 in the morning, when in the neighboring condominium car alarm went off . Not for the first time were we waken up in the middle of the night  by the same car, in the same building where the most annoying dog in the world lives, who barks at any time of day or night.

Saturday night didn’t bring any bigger sensation and we were in bed before 10 pm, getting at least so deserved sleep. Unfortunately, even on Sundays, people can’t sleep long, because the ‘disco on wheels’, full of drunken idiots parked outside infamous ‘Cafe Las Americas’. And they were still drinking when we came out for a walk.

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The walk was a special one, because we took with us dancing girl from Istebna. Istebna around the world is a project of young people from southern Poland, members of the Folk Ensemble Istebna. They come up with an idea that their logo with a dancing girl will go around the world, together with travellers. So recently she came to Santa Cruz de la Sierra – the city which never sleeps and does not allow you to sleep either.

Dancer from Istebna gracefully presented herself on the picture with the cathedral, mercado, and even a tropical storm, which went through the city on Saturday. Next time I will try to get her to visit other places, fur away from the sleepless Santa Cruz.

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P.S. We are not so boring as it seems, we also like to go out from time to time, but after that it would be nice to come back to a safety of a place we call our home:)

DSCN1383And not this:

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